New 300-Metre 5.13 Squamish Trad Climb
Blood Moon climbs long and sustained pitches up the north face of Mount Habrich
A new 300-metre 5.13a trad climb has been added to Mount Habrich’s north face far above Squamish called Blood Moon. It was completed this summer by Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall, a duo who’ve established some of the area’s hardest multi-pitch routes over the past few years.
Cook said the route is characterised by steep and burly crack climbing through five pitches followed by moderate climbing to the top. The pitches break down to 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.12a, 5.9R, 5.12d and lots of 5.7. Cook said the crux is a laser-cut crack with a crux that’s protected by small offset cams.
Habrich, accessed via the Sea to Sky Gondola at Shannon Falls (or by hiking up), is famous for several routes, including Life on Earth, which was first climbed in 1994 by Robin Barley, Nick Barley and Kevin McLane. In 2022, Life in Space, a 27-pitch 5.10b, was climbed by Colin Moorhead and Nick McNutt, see a pitch-by-pitch description with a topo here. And earlier this year, a 200-metre 5.10 was established called Earthshine.
Earlier this year, Cook and Marshall climbed a new 300-metre 5.13c in Mexico, in 2022 they completed a new 5.13b on The Chief, in 2021 they made the first ascent of a nine-pitch 5.13a on The Chief called The Drop Bear, and in 2019 they made the first ascent of Inner Fire 5.12d slab. See photos of Blood Moon below.
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