Todd Helgeson has climbed a new 5.13d at Dewmound in Alaska he called The New 40.
A day before his June 1 send, Helgeson said, “Next up for old projects is this short bouldery line out at Dewmound.
“This one is an unfinished line sharing the starting crux of Stand and Deliver 5.13a and going straight up on big moves, small crimps, and crap feet.
I think it was Eddie Faye who put in a directional bolt at the top of the seam and was the first to look at this line, however he deemed it too hard. I looked at it with him once many years ago (maybe in 2004 or 2005?), and it also seemed impossible.
“This spring I decided to take a look again and was able to figure out a sequence. Hopefully this will go down soon and we’ll have another new hard route.”
Dewmound is a smallish, mainly sport area near Eagle River and approached from the Eagle River Nature Center.
Other hard routes at the crag are Less Gypsy, More Ninja 5.13b and Less is More 5.13a.
A photo of Helgeson working the moves of The New 40 below.