New 5.14b on No Chalk, Run-Out German Sandstone
This is now the most difficult route at Elbsandstein and took 14 years to free
German climber Robert Leistner has made the first ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten, locally graded 12a which translates to 5.14b. The route climbs steep sandstone at Elbsandstein in the Saxonian Elbe Sandstone Valley in Germany.
The area is famous because climbers are prohibited from using chalk and metal equipment use (cam, nuts or bolts). Protection can only be slings tied into knots or ring-bolts drilled from a stance or a skyhook (which can’t be used less than three metres above the previous piece). Also, climbers can’t top-rope rehearse projects.
The first ascent of the 55-metre route was in 2005 when Leistner drilled 11 ring bolts while climbing ground-up. The bolts follow a line of sharp crimps and shallow pockets. The route is broken down into a 15-metre first pitch and a 40-metre 5.14b pitch. This will likely stand as the most difficult route in the area for some time.
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