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New 5.14c is Hardest Route in Atlantic Canada

Sebastian Pacey-Smith has reported about his newest route in Atlantic Canada that’s he called Cipher and graded 5.14c, making it the most difficult climb on the East Coast.

Pacey-Smith is based in Fredericton, New Brunswick and worked on the climb for one year. “I have been slowly pushing the top grade of hard climbing in Atlantic Canada over the past few years with first ascent’s of Slam Piece 5.13d in 2016 (hardest sport climb in Atlantic Canada at the time), Tachyon Shift 5.14a in 2017 (replacing Slam Piece as the hardest in New Brunswick) and Lucidity V11 (hardest boulder in New Brunswick).”

Pacey-Smith described the route as, “Deceptively steep. Deceptively hard. This route climbs the 35 degree overhang to the right of Steep As Flake.”

“Pull off the ground and into a V13 boulder problem,” said Pacey-Smith. “Solve the puzzle to gain a shield shaped hold and a brief ‘rest’ on a sloped ledge.

“After clipping the second bolt another V11 boulder problem awaits. Get horizontal and launch to an incut crimper and easier terrain above.

“Relax and enjoy the best jug you’ll ever find in NB before pulling a few easier moves and clipping the anchor.”

Watch Pacey-Smith on the first ascent of his problem called Lucidity V11.