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New Alpine Routes Breach Technical Terrain in Peru and Karakoram

Top alpine climbers continue to find remote and esthetic lines on big peaks

With late spring and summer conditions improving in the Greater Ranges, several teams have managed to establish new climbs on big peaks.

In the Karakoram, French alpinists Jerome Sullivan, Victor Saucede and Christophe Ogier have made the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6,850 m). “The climbers said they had been very lucky with excellent weather conditions,” their outfitter HighMountains T&T announced. In 2021, Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the peak but were thwarted by “crazy snow mushrooms and cornices.” The main Pumari Chhish (7,492 m) was climbed in 1979 by a Japanese team up the north ridge, however the eastern peak had been a focus of alpinists for decades.

In Peru, Italian climbers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria have established a new climb alpine style called Mucha Banana on the north face of Ranrapalca (6,162 m). They graded the 600-metre climb 80° AI3+ M5. During their trip, they’ve climbed at Hatun Machay (sport climbing at 4,000 metres), and climbed three 5,000-metre peaks: Huamashraju (5,434 m), Yanapaccha (5,460 m) and Ishinca (5,530 m).

Also in Peru, Eneko and Iker Pou and Micher Quito climbed two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca: Hanan Pacha at 90° over 425 metres on Urus Oeste, and Emmoa at M6 75° for 640 metres on Urus Oeste III. Earlier in spring, the Pou brothers made the first ascent of a 160-metre 5.13, read more about it here.