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New B.C. Routes Include Fun 5.10 and Four-Pitch 5.13

From easy-access to remote, newly opened routes add great options to popular areas

Photo by: Brandon Pullan

The weather in B.C. has been touchy this spring, with several rainy weeks, but climbers have found enough windows to piece together some great looking new routes.

In Squamish, a new climbing area and a new multi-pitch have been completed. Paul McSorley has released the topo to his new Lost Pillar area which features routes from single-pitch 5.8 to two-pitch 5.13s. Several climbers helped with establishing the area, which is found up the Mamquam FSR and requires a 4X4 truck to reach.

On The Chief, Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall completed a new four-pitch 5.13b called Balance. It follows a dyke across the Tantalus Wall and joins the final pitch of Cerberus. It was bolted ground-up, and the pitches go at 5.12d, 5.12b, 5.13b and 5.11d. They also bolted Thousand Year Storm, a 40-metre 5.13a on Tantalus Wall. In 2020, Cook completed Call of the Sirens, a five-pitch 5.14 on Tantalus Wall.

In the Kootenays, Yann Troutet, Chantal Guillemette and Geneviève Pomerleau have completed the first ascent of the 130-metre The Long Haul on Pulpit Rock above the town of Nelson. The mixed bolt/trad route goes at 5.5, 5.7, 5.7, 5.8 and 5.10. Pulpit Rock has several fun routes with a relatively short approach, including The Fling 5.11b, The Engagement 5.10b and The Date 5.10a. Learn more about Pulpit Rock here.


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Lead photo: Brandon Pullan