New Beta for Burden of Dreams V17?
Stefano Ghisolfi explores a new hold and sequence for one of the world's most difficult boulder problems
The world’s first V17, Burden of Dreams, has seen a lot of action over the past year. Many of the world’s best climbers have spent the winter and spring projecting the boulder, including Shawn Raboutou, Will Bosi, and Stefano Ghisolfi. Will Bosi went on to pick up the coveted second ascent of the line in April.
First sent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016, Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Many climbers have tried the line over the years and while micro-beta has differed from climber to climber, the problem’s five main hand moves have remained constant.
Not known for his bouldering, Ghisolfi surprised many with his progress on Burden this year. After a successful session on Will Bosi’s plastic replica, he set off to Finland to try the real thing. He completed all moves in isolation (including the notoriously difficult first move) and made lots of links.
Surprisingly, Ghisolfi has discovered unique and funky alternative beta for the problem’s second move. After sticking the first move (a right hand throw to a crimp rail), Ghisolfi brings his right foot up high above the rest of his body. He then bumps his left hand to a tiny crimp out left.
Most climbers (including Hukkataival and Bosi) instead keep their feet low and match their left hand just above their right hand on the crimp rail. Ghisolfi’s method leaves him squeezing between the right crimp rail and the left tiny crimp before throwing his right hand up to the next crimp rail. Does this new crimp compression beta make the problem easier? Will Ghisolfi continue to pursue this novel beta on his next trip to Lappnor?
“It is crazy and the craziest thing is that it works,” said Ghisolfi via Instagram. “I’m still not sure this is easier than Nalle and [Will’s] send beta, but it adds few style points. Which beta will I use? Still [I] don’t know.”
You can compare Hukkataival’s send beta to Ghisolfi’s new alternate beta below:
And if you want more Burden of Dreams content, check out Ghisolfi’s Q&A about the problem:
Stefano Ghisolfi answers questions about Burden of Dreams V17
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