Home > Mountain

New Big Alpine Route on Mount Proteus in Selkirks

Alex Geary and Madeleine Martin-Preney climbed a new 500-metre route on the south face of Mount Proteus in the Selkirks they dubbed The B-Team, which goes at TD- 5.10a on July 19.

B Team on Mount Proteus. Photo Alex Geary

To approach, you hike from Houston Lake find the easiest way up the glacier to the base of the route in just over two hours. They climbed the route in 13.5 hours from camp to camp.

Mount Proteus is the highest and most glaciated mountain in the Mellville Group. In 1947, N. Brewster and Mr. and Mrs. A.J. Kauffman made the first ascent.

There are a number of routes up the aesthetic peak, including the 22-pitch 5.8 called The Allen/Horvath by Paul Allen and Steve Horvath in 1988. And there is the the long glacier route called Proteus Glacier first climbed in 1972 by David Jones, D. Michael and W.L. Putnam.

Route Description for B Team:

Pitch 1: Start below a big right facing corner on the upper face. Follow a crack/ramp straight up until the angle eases, continue a little then belay. (5.9 50m)

Pitch 2: Follow a ramp left until you reach a crack/corner/chimney system that leads straight up below the big corner. Follow it to a nice ledge and belay. (5.8 50m)

Pitch 3: Continue up the chimney and run out face climbing above to a belay in an alcove. (5.8 45m)

On the lower glacier. Photo Alex Geary

Pitch 4: Continue up into the large right facing corner and belay at a big ledge. (5.10a 40m)

Pitch 5: Follow cracks up and left until possible to step back right into the right hand corner and belay on a good ledge. (5.9 30m)

Pitch 6: Climb the corner through a bulge to the SE Ridge and continue up the ridge. (5.8 55m)

Continue up the ridge for many more pitches up to 5.8.