New Bolted 13-Pitch 5.11 on B.C.’s Amazing Nomash Slab

Up Wapiti Valley on Greyback Peak is a huge granite face called Nomash Slab. The mountain is part of the Ehattesaht’s territories on the west coast of Vancouver Island.

Nomash Slab has a number of bolted multi-pitch routes, including Wapiti Mainline, a 13-pitch 5.11, the 11-pitch Forever 5.10d, and the 5.11 trad route Taladega Highbank. It’s one of the most aesthetic slabs of rock on the Island. Wapiti Mainline was established back in 2002 by Dave LePard, Dave Parsons and Carla Bortoletto at 5.10b A0 and is frequently climbed using the easy-to-aid bolts.

This week, John Relyea-Voss, Michael Ness and Kyle Bourquin bolted a new 13-pitch 5.11 that shares the first pitch of Taledega Highbank. It then goes right into “many cool features, eventually topping out to the nice granite viewpoint of the slabs up an area that has not yet been climbed,” said Relyea-Voss on his route report.

It’s not officially open, as the FA team are still cleaning ledges and ensuring protection bolts are in the best places. They will update people with specific pitch beta later in the summer.

“We are estimating the grade of this climb to go at 5.11 and the majority of the pitches at 5.10. We have used rap anchors at max spacing of 40 metres for each pitch to ensure a single 80-metre rope can be used for the whole adventure.” It’s a good idea to climb with a tag line or twin ropes on multi-pitch routes in case you have to bail, and a single 60- or 70-metre rope won’t suffice.

“Our group sought out a couple very cool features following a longer thin dyke and a series of flakes and finger cracks that make the climb varied and interesting. Lots of slab climbing, underclings, laybacks and some fun bouldery sections as well make for quite the adventure.”

If you’re on Vancouver Island and looking for a fun adventure, be sure to check out Wapiti Mainline and the other long routes on Nomash Slab.

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