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New Coire Dubious in the Rockies

March 14, 2014
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The Rockies Lodder Peak has long been the scene of winter mixed climbing. The classic Coire Dubh Integral is one of the best 5.7, WI2+, 600-metre alpine-esque mixed routes in Canada. After a few hundred metres of easy ice, you climb corners and pockets to the saddle north of Lodder Peak.

The controversial Doors of Perception M6, 600 metres was bolted five years ago, although it is a popular route many believe the bolts were unnecessary. Jay Mills and Steve Holeczi recently added Coire Dubious M5, 600 metres left of Doors of Perception, they used no bolts or fixed protection. “Climbed a new route on Loder Peak with Steve Holeczi. It had lots of great drytooling up corners and pockets for eight pitches and went at about M5. No bolts or fixed gear were added, but it protects pretty well and the rock is good by Rockies standards,” said Mills.

As the winter climbing season comes to an end, there are still a few days left to climb Coire Dubious before the lower ice melts out.

Lodder Peak Topo Jay Mills
Lodder Peak (Note: Mills/Holeczi is now Coire Dubious)
"Approaching the start of Doors of Perception (M6), our route went left on a ramp just before hitting the obvious rock corner, then it climbed the series of corners that are visible leading all the way to the right edge of the yellow overhangs in the top left of photo." -Jay Mills
“Approaching the start of Doors of Perception (M6), our route went left on a ramp just before hitting the obvious rock corner, then it climbed the series of corners that are visible leading all the way to the right edge of the yellow overhangs in the top left of photo.” -Jay Mills
"Holeczi on the start of the first pitch." -Jay Mills
“Holeczi on the start of the first pitch.” -Jay Mills