New Delhi Cliff: Two New Squamish Multi-Pitch Routes

Squamish locals have been busy this spring developing some great looking new climbs. The New Delhi Cliff is right of the Top Shelf and left of the Barbarian Wall and has two new multi-pitch 5.11s that were climbed this spring.

Approach as Top Shelf for 15 minuntes and then head right where trail forks. “The area is still under development so take precautions,” said Jason Green.

The first was climbed on May 8, by Harry Young, Green and Colin Moorhead and is called Road to Amritsar. The new six-pitch 5.11c is sustained throughout with the crux second pitch being dubbed the Turning Green pitch. The first pitch is a steep 5.11a corner that ends with finger locks, which is followed by the Turning Green pitch. Green describes it as, “Stem up this classic corner up to a hanging chimney (crux) pull through a small roof to bolted belay.” The third pitch (photo below) clocks in at 5.10d and includes stemming to an underclinging section that ends with wide hands.

Pitch four is a thin hands 5.11b and is followed by the easiest pitch on the route at 5.9. The last pitch is called The Pitch in The Woods and is another 5.11c with pumpy jams that lead to a committing crux. “Must do pitch, you won’t be disappointed.” You can avoid this pitch by traversing left along the ledge to the descent down the following route. The second route was climbed on May 16 by Harry Young and Jason Green and also goes at 5.11c. The five-pitch route is called The Ganges and starts with a 5.9 corner pitch that leads to a 5.11a splitter face crack that leads to an undercling move around a block.

The third pitch is the first 5.11c crux with laybacks through an airy overhanging section with good finger locks and protection. Pitch four is a 5.10d stem, which was followed with The Pitch in the Woods on the first ascent. To descend either route, rappel from bolted stations on The Ganges.