The Ecuadorian/Swiss climber Karl Egloff climbed to the top of Denali via the West Buttress in seven hours and 40 minutes and returned to the base in 11 hours and 44 minutes. His time is now the fastest up and down North America’s highest peak, beating Kilian Jornet’s by two minutes.
Egloff descended on foot, without using skis, unlike Jornet. Jornet took to Twitter to congratulate Egloff on his accomplishment. Egloff also holds speed records on Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus and others.
“It felt like I was running on water,” Egloff, 38, told Gordy Megroz for outsideonline.com when they talked by phone. “From Camp I to Camp III [6,400 feet of climbing], I used crampons attached to running shoes but it was still very slippery.”
Egloff now plans to head to Puncak Jaya in Indonesia, the highest peak on the Australian continent. Then he’ll head to Vinson in Antarctica and one days he’ll go for Everest, which he wants to climb up and down in 22 hours.
For those wondering about any rivalry between Egloff and Jornet, the two are in fact friends and motivate each others. “Our sport is a gentleman’s sport,” Egloff said to Megroz.