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New Difficult Big Wall Route in Madagascar

Hamid Reza Shafaghi, Hassan Gerami and Farshad Mijoji climbed some big wall classics to prepare for their new Madagascar route on the Tsaranoro massif.

The three Iranian climbers established the 440-metre 5.13d A2 to the top of the Karambony Tower in Madagascar in April after six days on the wall and named their route, The Change Experience.

Karambony Tower1
The Karambony Tower: The Change Experience climb the obvious prow and Tough Enough climb the large, streaked wall to the left.

The Karambony Tower was in the news in 2010 when Adam Ondra freed the Karambony Tower’s most difficult route: Though Enough,  a 10-pitch 5.14b.

While a number of pitches were freed on The Change Experience on the ground-up ascent, they later added over 100 bolts to a number of the aid pitches and free them. Pitches two and three remain unfreed.

The seasoned big wall climbers prepared for the route by training on the Grand Capucin’s Bonatti Route A2, the Slovenian Route on Great Trango Tower 5.12b and by establishing Rajiaon on the Alam Kooh in Iran.

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