Carlo Traversi, 33, made the fourth ascent of the 35-metre Magic Line 5.14c near Vernal Falls in Yosemite in 2021. First climbed by Ron Kauk in 1996, it was repeated by his son Lonnie Kauk in 2016, and then by Hazel Findlay in 2019. Magic Line requires solid crack climbing skills, but also near-perfect conditions which Traversi was greeted with the day of his send.
Traversi first tried Magic Line a few years ago and put in six sessions last year before his redpoint. In 2018, he made the second ascent of Beth Rodden’s famous gear climb Meltdown 5.14c. He’s also climbed 5.15b and V15, and is now on his way to Switzerland on a bouldering trip. In November 2021, he made the third ascent of Flex Luthor 5.15b in Colorado.
There are only a handful of trad climbs established at 5.14c with only one possibly being 5.14d: Meltdown 5.14c, Magic Line 5.14c, Into the Sun 5.14c in Switzerland, Pura Pura 5.14c in Valle dell’Orco, Recovery Drink 5.14c in Norway, Rhapsody 5.14c in Dumbarton Rock and Tribe 5.14+?. For a list of the world’s hardest gear climbs see here.