New Finland 5.14c Trad is One of World’s Hardest
Privatvägen is now Finland's most difficult trad route at 5.14c
Tomi Nytorp has been one of Finland’s top climbers for two decades, with 5.13 onsights and redpoints up to 5.14d. The leading Finn has recently sent a 20-year-old project at Raaseporissa. Nytorp is giving Privatvägen the difficult grade of 5.14c, which makes it one of the hardest single-pitch trad routes in the world and the most difficult in Finland. Photographer Mikko Mäkelä said, “The line is exceptional as its the only way up an otherwise immaculate piece of rock.”
“Accessibility is very easy and the rock usually dries quite quickly,” said Nytorp in an interview with some great photos here about the 25-metre route. “There are nothing but bare rocks on either side of the crack, so the line is very nice.”
Nytorp had previously made the first ascent of Syncro 5.14b/c, which is Finland’s hardest sport route. Watch as Nytorp re-visits his hard bolted line with Anthony Gullsten.
World’s Hardest Trad
Privatvägen 5.14c in Finland by Tomi Nytorp
Tribe 5.14d or? in Spain by Jacopo Larcher
Blackbeard’s Tears 5.14c at Redwood Coast, U.S.A. by Ethan Pringle
Meltdown 5.14c in Yosemite by Beth Rodden, Carlo Traversi
Pura Pura 5.14c in Valle dell’Orco, Italy by Tom Randall
Recovery Drink 5.14c in Jossingford, Norway by Nico Favresse, Daniel Jung
Rhapsody 5.14c in Dumbarton Rock, U.K. by Dave MacLeod, Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, James Pearson, Jacopo Larcher
Magic Line 5.14b/c in Yosemite by Ron Kauk, Lonnie Kauk
Brozone 5.14b in Gunks by Andy Salo, Sam Elias
Century Crack 5.14b in Canyonlands by Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker, Danny Parker
Cobra Crack 5.14b in Squamish by Sonnie Trotter, Nico Favresse, Ethan Pringle, Matt Segal, Will Stanhope, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Honnold, Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall, Ben Harnden, Mason Earle, Logan Barber, Said Belhaj
Echo Wall 5.14b on Ben Nevis by Dave MacLeod
Family Man 5.14b in Skaha by Sonnie Trotter, Ben Harnden
Lapoterapia 5.14b in Osso, Italy by Jacopo Larcher
The Bull 5.14b in Squamish by Jeremy Smith, Ben Harnden
The Dawn Wall 5.14b (trad) 5.14d (sport) in Yosemite by Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Adam Ondra
Tom Egan Memorial Route 5.14b in the Bugaboos by Will Stanhope