New Hard Route on Squamish’s Sheriff’s Badge
Tony McLane and Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent of The Daily Universe, a new 5.12b up the Sheriff’s Badge.
The Daily Universe is an extension to the already classic 5.12a route on the Sheriff’s Badge called The Daily Planet. The new nine-pitch route is the first free-climb through the big roofs of the “badge.”
The first four pitches climb The Daily Planet 5.12a or 5.12b depending on whether you finish on the Bechkham/Sandhal finish or the Moorehead/Ike final pitch.
From there, climb a 25-metre pitch up and right passing three bolts to a wide crack. The original Badge aid climb heads straight up through the roofs. The Daily Universe heads out right and is the crux 5.12b of the route.
The pitch has five bolts and requires a number three and number four camalot. Don’t get suckered into the off-route bolt above the third bolt, unless you want to attempt the “direct” open project. This pitch weaves a clever line through the steep roofs of the Sheriff’s Badge.
The next pitch is a 60-metre 5.12a, that has a mix of bolts and gear. Pitch eight is a shorter 15-metre 5.10, which you need to build an anchor for.
The final pitch is 35-metre 5.11d layback/jam crack that takes you to Sasquatch Ledge where you traverse to Angel’s Crest.
– Thanks to Tony McLane, son of guidebook author Kevin McLane, for the information and photos about this amazing new free route to the top of The Chief.