Paul Taylor and Ryan Patteson climbed a new mixed route in Kananaskis Country on Dec. 10.
They named the new 150-metre M6 Insane Alligators and climbed it in six pitches. They posted their new route information on the Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing Facebook page.
It climbs a south-facing line right of the popular route Saddam’s Insane on Mount Kidd. After heavy snow, the route will have high avalanche hazards.
The pitches break down as WI4 50m, WI2 25m, M6 30m, M6 10m, M5 WI5 20m and M6 20m. The first pitch is the same as Axes of Evil, first climbed in 2003.
Pitch five description is: “The chimney pitch. Four bolts, cracks and rock gear options on the left, ice on the right. Take your pick. Fun climbing. Finish at a cave/ledge with bolted station.”
In the photo below, Raphael Slawinski and Juan Henriquez climbed the overhanging scoop direct into the upper line on Dec. 2 and added six bolts at M6+.