Jay Mills is one of the Rockies’ leading guides and new routers. He has now climbed a number of new routes in the Coire Dubh area on Lodder Peak.
After the December cold snap, Mill and his partner Julian headed up the ice pitches on Coire Dubh and climbed the standard M5 mixed pitch that gains the upper headwall. In the end they established Soft Coire M5+.
He then continued directly to the obvious series of steep corner. “It is the straightest series of cracks on the wall and is perhaps 60 m to the left of the normal Coire Dubh corner,” said Mills. “We climbed four 40 m pitches of about M5, with the last one being a bit harder at M5+ or so. It had some really good climbing and each pitch had at least one steep and challenging section. A full rock rack including pitons and perhaps a specter is recommended.”