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New Possible 5.13 on St. Lawrence River in Quebec

Voïvode, new possible 5.13 in Quebec

Jean Francois Girard has reported about his recent first ascent of Voïvode near Parc national du Bic.

The route climbs above the St. Lawrence River at Cap Cormoran and links three types of rock in a 50-metre pitch that could be 5.13.

“The steep wall is composed of three different types of rock that offer a variety of movement and holds,” said Girard.

The climb has some laybacking, pumpy sloppers and hard cracks on excellent limestone, a chossy section of sandstone and some conglomerate.

“I bolted the Voïvode two years ago,” said Girard who established it with Eric Tremblay.

It starts with easy climbing to some technical and powerful boulder moves at 5.12c. Then it heads to a slab and a full rest, from there no more rests to the top.

Jean Francois Girard on Voïvode

The middle section is a good 5.10c on really marginal gear and pin that leads to a pump-fest. The final three metres is hard 5.12 laybacking to the chains.

You have to pull up 50 metres of rope for the last clip off a narrow finger jam.

“I pink pointed the project, but hope to do it clean,” said Girard. “A video will be out this fall and the grade needs to be confirmed.

“Thanks to all my mates who gave their time on this project and also Les agences Stéphane Morin, Scarpa and Outdoor Research.”

Jean Francois Girard at the base of his new route