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New Rogue Tower Climbs Splitters in Coast Mountain Alpine

Zoe Manson and Evan Guilbault have made the first ascent of a remote granite route far north in the Coast Mountains on Canada’s west coast.

Their new 300-metre route follows splitter cracks and is called Rogue Tower.

The 5.10 C1 climbs a line up an esthetic wall located at Montrose Divide, which took a two-day sail trip and 40-kilometre hike to reach.

Their climb is dedicated to Rob Richards, who was a climbing pioneer who inspired many young climbers to search out new routes.

In 1992, Richards and Colin Dionne made the first explorations onto the enormous West Main Wall at Powell River.

The following year, Richards and Dionne made the first ascent of the 900-metre The Mainline, a grade-six 5.11 A4, with very little big wall experience.

On Instagram, Mason said, “Two days of sailing, 40 km down logging roads, one wild river crossing, two days of gully approaching, some travel across a glacier, and a fun day of rock climbing led to this stunning peak.”

Rogue Tower III 5.10 C1 Topo/Photo Evan Guilbault

And continued with, “The route begins in a crack system and ends with exhilarating exposure on Coast Mountain alpine spires.

“This route is dedicated to our friend, mentor, and loved one Rob Richards. Rob’s vision pushed us North to this beautiful wonderland of alpine granite country. Trying to climb all of the places that Rob pointed his finger towards on GoogleEarth would be impossible, but I feel grateful and inspired to keep adventuring.

“It saddens me to come back from this trip and not be able to pull up the photos with Rob and tell him our stories over morning coffee. In my mind I hear him saying, ‘good job, youngling.'”

Two days of sailing, 40 km down logging roads, one wild river crossing, two days of gully approaching, some travel across a glacier, and a fun day of rock climbing led to this stunning peak. My partner @bcbedouin and I established "Rogue Tower" 5.10, C1, 300m . The route begins in a crack system and ends with exhilarating exposure on Coast Mountain alpine spires. This route is dedicated to our friend, mentor, and loved one Rob Richards. Rob's vision pushed us North to this beautiful wonderland of alpine granite country. Trying to climb all of the places that Rob pointed his finger towards on GoogleEarth would be impossible, but I feel grateful and inspired to keep adventuring. It saddens me to come back from this trip and not be able to pull up the photos with Rob and tell him our stories over morning coffee. In my mind I hear him saying, "good job, youngling." <3 Photo @bcbedouin @xtremeorganics – – – – – – – #coastmountains #firstascent #spires #alpineclimbing #alpine #backcountry #tradclimbing #ridges #tower

A post shared by Zoe Manson (@zoemanz) on

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