New Route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson

Gripped Magazine May 14, 2014

Americans Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper climbed a new route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson from May 1 to 4.

Based on the Ruth Glacier, the pair climbed the Stairway to Heaven VI, A1, M6, WI4, AI5+X with support from the Mugs Stump Award. Jennings wrote on his social media, “No bolts placed as Mugs and Orgler would have preferred. Yeah, we’re psyched!”

Will Mayo and Josh Wharton recently completed a new route on Mount Huntington, read about it here.

Read Ian Welsted’s report from his expedition, with Darren Vonk and Kris Irwin, into the Revelations Range.

Photos and quotes by Ryan Jennings.

Mount Johnson with line

"Approach wall to left of Seracs. We're in Alaska now folks!" — “Approach wall to left of Seracs. We’re in Alaska now folks!”

"Pitch 2. Access to the wall was granted with this traverse around and over shrooms and we knew we had a shot!" — “Pitch 2. Access to the wall was granted with this traverse around and over shrooms and we knew we had a shot!”

"Approaching the wall for the full ascent. Lines fixed for first 100 m to roof above." — “Approaching the wall for the full ascent. Lines fixed for first 100 m to roof above.”

"Rest/brew up stop after the first 250 m AI5 pitch. I just want to go down but moral is soon boosted and we continue on." — “Rest/brew up stop after the first 250 m AI5 pitch. I just want to go down but moral is soon boosted and we continue on.”

"Where's the pro!! looking down the AI5 pitch after it finally backed off a bit. 700+ft of heady climbing with NO pro whatsoever and we still had another pitch of the same but harder ahead.....hopefully we'll never do that again....." — “Where’s the pro!! looking down the AI5 pitch after it finally backed off a bit. 700+ft of heady climbing with NO pro whatsoever and we still had another pitch of the same but harder ahead…..hopefully we’ll never do that again…..”

"The Shredder Pitch. Lots of chimneying to come." — “The Shredder Pitch. Lots of chimneying to come.”

" The Hideaway Bivi a couple hours later in the morning." — “
The Hideaway Bivi a couple hours later in the morning.”

" the relatively short M6 crux section up high." — “
the relatively short M6 crux section up high.”

" Northern Lights on the final push to the summit. Everyone said they don't come out this time of year. Soooo coooool!" — “
Northern Lights on the final push to the summit. Everyone said they don’t come out this time of year. Soooo coooool!”

" Storm keeping us from a shower and more booze." — “
Storm keeping us from a shower and more booze.”

" Thank you Mugs Stump and the Mugs Stump Award! We couldn't have done it without you. It was an honor to celebrate your ideals in a way we believe you would appreciate." — “
Thank you Mugs Stump and the Mugs Stump Award! We couldn’t have done it without you. It was an honor to celebrate your ideals in a way we believe you would appreciate.”