New Route on Limestone Tower in B.C.’s Marble Canyon

Lyle Knight and John Dyck have established a new route on Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon north of Squamish. The tower is reached after a four-hour hike up from Pavilion Lake. The two experienced climbers established a new 5.10+ up the northwest face. Both pitches are about 35 metres and go at 5.10+. The line is mostly bolted, but requires a few pieces up to a number one on both pitches.

#chimneyrock #pavillionlakebc @lyle_knight and I put up a 2 pitch 10+ ,70m mixed line up the NW face (left side skyline) #canadianrock #limestonetowers

A photo posted by john dyck (@canyonrat) on Aug 6, 2016 at 5:25pm PDT

The large limestone tower was first climbed in 1957 by Hank Mather and Elfrida Pigou up the route called Chimney Rock 5.4. In Knight’s 1996 guidebook Central BC Rock, he describes the history of the tower. He noted that the feature has long been referred to as Coyote Rock or Coyote’s Penis and that one legend suggests those who climb it will die shortly after, which has been the case for some climbers.

A photo posted by Lyle Knight (@lyle_knight) on Aug 3, 2016 at 9:08pm PDT