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New Six-Pitch 5.12- Above Squamish

The Goat Whisperer is beauty looking new line above Squamish in the Barbarian Walls

Photo by: Alex Ratson of Luc Kennedy

The Goat Whisperer is a new six-pitch 5.12 established by Luc Kennedy over the past few years. It’s located within The Ruins at the Barbarian Walls above Squamish.

It follows mostly moderate pitches up northwest facing pillars of solid granite. Kennedy was hoping to establish the route ground up, but opted to clean it top down due to the amount of vegetation. After establishing the line, he began to piece it together using a micro traxion, with support from Chris Phillips.

On May 28, Kennedy redpointed all six pitches, which go at 5.10 20m, 5.11+ 30m, 5.8 20m, 5.11+ 50m, 5.7 20m, and 5.12- 35m. For gear, Kennedy says to bring a rack from #0.1 – #4, doubles of #0.1, #0.75, triples #0.5, quadruples #0.2 to #0.4, small nuts and/or RPs, eight quickdraws and eight to 10 alpine draws. Find more beta on Climb On’s blog here.

Among the Barbarian Walls is the New Delhi cliff (with routes like The Ganges 5.11a, Road to Amritsar 5.11c, Komagata Maru 5.12a and La Princess 5.12d), Lantern Wall and Troglodyte Wall

Lead photo: Alex Ratson of Luc Kennedy