In 2016, Alex Megos sent Fight Club 5.15b as Canada’s first 5.15. The steep line is found at Raven Crag above Banff.

While the 5.15 might attract strong climbers from around the world to try for the second ascent this year, there are many other moderate classic sport routes for those looking for weekend projects.

James Blackhall on his new 5.11c at Raven Crag. Photo Thankyou Izumi

James Blackhall spent hours in 2015 and 2016 retro-bolting old routes at the limestone crag, many of which were first climbed by Peter Arbic in the early 1990s.

Blackhall has added a number of routes, including two 5.10s called Where the Wild Things Are and Apollo. In spring 2017, he bolted a new 5.11c that climbs a steep corner and ends at the anchor for Telltale Heart.

Blackhall said, “Fun stemming ends at quick shake, with a couple bolts of hardish pulling on gastons, sidepulls and a few small crimps.

“The last move is a decent sized deadpoint to the same finishing hold as Telltale, which to me, gives a better ending then Telltale’s.”

A post shared by James Scott Blackhall (@jsbc___) on

Down the valley on Grotto Mountain, Marcus Norman made the first ascent of One Punch Man 5.13a. “Tackles the left edge of the cave,” said Norman.

“Weird juggy moves to a powerful lip encounter. This rig was a minor epic to clean – but seems pretty solid now. Thanks to Brian Garrison for unlocking better crux beta.”

For a 2016 topo of Apocalypse Cave by Evan Hau, who started development at the steep crag, visit here. Hau is currently projecting a potential 5.15 at Echo Canyon.

Report error or omission