Jon Walsh needed three attempts to complete his new route Cosmik Debris on the Stanley Headwall. His first visit was last October with Michelle Kadatz and his second was this March with Ross Suchy. Walsh and Kadatz made the first ascent shortly after and graded the new mixed route M6 WI6 185 metres.
“For many years, I had noticed a crack running up the rock pillar to the right of Rhamsusia and always thought of attempting it,” noted Walsh. “When it ends, an obvious (to me) foot rail trends right to some corners before arriving at the halfway ledge of Nemesis.
“I was really hoping it would good on trad gear but the second pitch required the addition of some bolts. I think it’s a fun variation of moderate difficulty, the rock quality is mostly excellent, and I recommend it.” Pitch by pitch description here.
The route is named after the more-than-usual amount of avalanche debris at the base of the wall. A once-in-many-years class four avalanche ripped from above Nemesis to the top of the north face of Stanley Peak earlier this year.
Nemesis was first climbed in 1974 by Bugs McKeith and friends using aid techniques. It was later freed by John Lauchlan, Albi Sole and James Blench in 1980. Ramnusia was first climbed in 2006 by Sean Isaac and Shawn Huisman, first ascent report here.
Update April 17: Walsh and Raphael Slawinski completed the direct finish to Cosmik Debris, making it an independent route. When the cleaning was done (watch video below) the pitch went at M7.