The classic desert route Jah Man collapsed a few weeks ago, but local climbers have already established a new start where the pitches had fallen off. The route climbs the southeast face of Sister Superior in Castle Valley.
Climbing guide Gaar Lausman said, “Crew of four locals, Mark Howe, Jake Warren, Dave Sadof and myself reclaimed JahMan. We established three new pitches that link into the original line. The new climb is fairly clean, fun, and engaging.”
The new route adds a 5.12b/c pitch, which ups the grade quite a bit from the original 5.10. The top of the new pitch three ends on a natural ledge and joins the original route. Mark Howe wrote on Mountain Project: “unstable and actively settling. Spontaneous rock sliding in the impact area is occurring and continuing over the 50′ rock band below the base.”
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Sad Sad day!!!😢😢😪 We lost one of the best desert climbs this week! The opening chimney was by far one of the best 5.8 chimneys anywhere. And was the gate keeper to the beautiful head wall! I’m so happy that I had the opportunity to guide this beautiful tower many times, climb it with some of my favorite people and smoke my last final Cuban on top of it! Jah Man, thank you for all the best memories! At least 10 summits. We’ll find another free variation! . . #iblametrump #gravityisamyth #songofsorrow #rip #desertlove #noclimbing #climbingdown #erosion #climbing #rockclimbing #dirtbagdreams #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #tradisrad
“A major portion of the south terminus of the tower is fractured and has serac-like features that appear potentially unstable. There are spontaneous and sporadic sand spin drifts propagating from the fractures in this area indicating movement.”
Approach with care and be wary of loose and unstable sections.
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#fuckyeah We did it!!🎉🎉🎉💪💪💪 Crew of 4 locals, Mark Howe, Jake Warren, Dave Sadof and myself reclaimed JahMan! We established 3 new pitches that link into the original line. The new climb is fairly clean, fun, and engaging. Except for P1, which is standard desert tower climbing. So it’s still fun . P1 5.10 70’ Starts as the Original but heads up and left then traverse right (#4& 1) into a nice hand crack capped with chock stones. Navigate a few loose blocks to a bolt and head right to a new 2 bolt anchor on big ledge . P2 5.11 35-40’ Down climb 3 feet to the clean calcite horizontal (.75,1, &2s) and sprint right. Keep a close eye out for feet and a hidden hold when it pinches shut for 2’. Build an anchor out of many options below the finger crack on a small 3”x1’ ledge. . P3 5.12b/c crank the .3-.5 calcite crack for 50’ until you reach the old anchor. Skip it and climb 3 more feet to a natural ledge/flake stance and build an anchor here.(.75-1), Will eventually be equipped and old anchor pulled. or continue immediately into the old crux and up to old P2 ledge. . . . #climbinghardersincebeforinstagram #tradisrad #locals #wearyourgoddamnhelmet #climbing #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion @rockandicemag @climbingmagazine @grippedmagazine @paganmountaineering #sterlingrope @sterlingrope #fixehardware @fixe.climb #creekfreak #moab #desert #evolution #rockclimber #desertrat