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New V11 in B.C. and Ontario, Manitoba, Alberta and Maritime Sends

From coast to coast, climbers are sending hard new and old problems

It’s bouldering season across Canada and climbers are starting to put their covid-19 second-lockdown training to work. With spring starting this weekend, more people will be heading to the boulderfields, so be sure to have a backup plan.

Brennan Doyle has made the first ascent of Peanut Butter Theory V11 at Montague Park on Galiano Island, B.C. Earlier this year, Doyle made the first ascent of Uncut Gems Sit V13 at Otter Point and Cash Maniac V10 at the Duncan Boulders. Last fall, he sent The Reckoning V14 in Squamish. Read an interview with Doyle here.

In Alberta, Scott Eveleigh has started a video series called Berta Beta that shows the beta to classic problems in Alberta. Watch below where he shows the beta for The Medallion V10/11 at Black Prince. “Probably one of the best boulders in Alberta, but it’s remote location and committing nature means it probably won’t see much attention,” he said. “I originally thought the grade would be V10 however after reflection it could be harder, hence the slash grade.”

In Manitoba, Lac Du Bonnet has been getting a lot of attention. Matt Gain made the first ascent of Eye Doctor V3 and Chris Tarry send the new Double Bypass V6. “I first did the move back in December when top out was still a frozen mess of ice and snow but all of the chopping away of frozen dirt finally paid off,” he said. “It went very quickly this time around (second go). Credit to Matt for a relentless cleaning effort.”

At Ontario’s Niagara Glen, Jake Tiger made the first ascent of Balrog Battle V7 at Romper Room. He said, “Really gorgeous view from this boulder. You really get to see the river. Afternoon sun. On the same boulder as Framonda V3 in the new guide. Right across from the Misfits boulder atop the tunnel. Start seated, matched on rail with a left heel hook, use a two finger pocket to get to a far RH undercling. Topout straight up and to the left avoiding the cedar.” For some great beta on boulders in the province visit MoBeta here.

In the Maritimes, Guillaume Richard, who grew up in Nova Scotia and climbed at Ground Zero in Dartmouth, returned home after living in France where he was a routesetter. In February, he made the third ascent of RTK V12. He then made the second ascent of Hourglass V11, watch below.

The Medallion V10/11

Hour Glass V11