Home > Bouldering

New V15 at Joe’s Valley and Other Boulder News

There’s lots of bouldering news from the past few weeks as we leave winter behind and head into spring 2018.

Matt Fultz has made the first ascent of Expansion (pictured below) and graded it V15. He said it’s possibly Joe’s Valley’s hardest problem and probably one of the best.

A post shared by Matt Fultz (@matt_fultz) on

Keenan Takahashi and Ethan Pringle have repeated The Nest V15 in Red Rocks, Nevada.

Pringle wrote about the four-year process to send the hard problem here, where he said, “Just like that, it was done. More than 50 days of effort, hundreds of miles of hiking, hundreds of hours spent at this boulder, thousands of tries, and it was all over in a minute.

“I’d finally had the experience I was looking for. All the hard work and determination; all the blood, sweat, and tears; all the self-criticism and self-doubt; and all the enduring hope made it that much more powerful. It was a journey I’ll never forget.”

In Japan, Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Arobayo V15 in Yakushima, which had a committing top-out.

Also in Japan, Orochi V15 was climbed by Nomura Shinichiro in under an hour and Daisuke Iichimiya climbed Gekirin V15, which Koyamada first climbed in January.

Send “Gekirin (v15)”that one of hardest boulder in Kyoshu from @dai_koyamada . It has unique holding for best,hard traverse and crux.I was suffer from the crux move. Sick photo from @i_chikara 九州最難に九州男児の腕っ節をと思い、前回の龍頭泉でカラムーチョを登った後、気になっていた”逆鱗(5段+)”。オリジナルムーブと違うムーブを見つけ、手数は減ったけど、核心の遠い一手が難しい。繋げトライの核心で数回落ちたけど、その後数トライで核心がバチっと止まり登れました。1手目があまりしたことないホールディングで、岩ならではの理不尽だけど出来て楽しいというのが印象的でした。 古賀さん、一日中付き合っていただいて、ありがとうございました🙏 @fiveten_official @mountainhardwear.jp @frictionlabs @organicclimbing @up.athlete

A post shared by Daisuke Ichimiya (@daisukeichimiya) on

In Fontainebleau, James Webb and Jan Hojer have been projecting the sit start to The Big Island V15.

The first ascent was in 2010 by Vincent Pochon. When finished it could be the world’s second V17.

Also in Fontainebleau, Giuliano Cameroni sent The Big Island V15 and Ander Mendieta climbed Mecanique Elementaire V14/15.

Comp climber Amelia Marcuson, 15, has climbed her first V13 with a send of Beefy Gecko in Bishop. Isabelle Faus sent her 11th V13 with a top of Wonderlust in St Vrain.

Clément Lechaptois has made the first ascent of Malédiction assis V15 in Southern France.

In Switzerland, Martin Stranik climbed Der mit dem Fels Tanzt V15 and Hukkataival’s Ninja Skills V14. Watch below.