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New Weeping Wall WI5 is Lynx and List of Area Climbs

The Weeping Wall Area is on the Icefields Parkway north of Banff on Cirrus Mountain and faces southwest. The first ascent of the Lower Weeping Wall was by Rob Wood and Bugs McKeith in the early 1970s. Since then, over a dozen separate routes have been climbed on the Lower and Upper Weeping Wall.

Jon Walsh, Cecilia Buil and Ixchel Foord climbed a new 130-metre route on the far right side of the Upper Weeping Wall they are calling Lynx WI5. There is no recorded information about this line being climbed before and it’s found about 400 metres right of the Upper Weeping Wall routes.

This image is looking down from the first belay, of a fun new route, at least I think it's new, haha, on the far right side of the upper Weeping Wall yesterday with @ixchel_foord and @ceciliabuil. We called it Lynx, after one crossed the road right in front of us on the way there. This smear is about 400m right of the weeping pillar and has about 130m of thin ice climbing in two long pitches and felt like wi5, although if it it ever fattened up, it would be wi4. The protection on this first pitch was seven 10cm screws and four 13cm screws, with everyone of them touching rock. Two bottomed out 16cm screws and a c-thread made the belay. Most of the ice on it averaged about 5cm thick until the belay at 70m where it's 15cm thick. I can't explain why this sketchy "slab" climbing is fun, but it really is! The second pitch was a bit steeper and fatter (although still quite thin) and ended at a tree on a big snow ledge. The views and positions out on this prow are nothing short of world class! Go get it before it melts! Pick holes and v-threads are in!!! #celebratewild #noplacetoofar @arcteryx @scarpana @onwardup_official @petzl_official

A post shared by Jon Walsh (@jon.walsh) on

Lower Weeping Wall
Mixed Master M4 WI5 300m
Dead Eye Dick 5.10 WI5+R/X 105m
Weeping Wall Left WI4 180m
Central Pillar WI5+ 180m
Weeping Wall Right WI5 180m
Snivelling Gully WI3 180m
Birthday Present M7 WI5 170m (varitation last pitch to Snivelling)
It’s a Crying Shame M4 WI3 170m (varitation last pitch to Snivelling)
Aerial Boundaries WI5+ 170m

Upper Weeping Wall
No Use in Crying M7 200m
Mixed Emotions 5.9 A1 M5 WI6 145m
Tear Drop WI6 170m
Pussycat M7 WI5R 180m
Weeping Pillar WI6 170m
Cry Me a River M6 WI6 170m
Master of Puppet WI6 180m
Mare in Winter WI4+ 200m
Nasty Habits WI6 200m
Ice T WI6 180m
Tales of Ordinary Madness WI5+ 180m
Lynx WI5+ 130m

Weeping Wall Area showing new route Lynx WI5 130m
Weeping Wall Area showing new route Lynx WI5 130m