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New West Coast Moderate Alpine

Conny Amelunxen has made numerous first ascents of big walls around the world, from Squamish to Baffin Island to Patagonia.

In 1999, he and Sean Easton established Hoth, VI, 5.10+, A4, WI2/3, 1,100 m, 27 pitches, on the southeast buttress of the South Tower of Paine in 24 days, including 19 nights in a portaledge, in a capsule-style ascent of the wall with an alpine-style summit push.

During the Feb. 2014 cold-snap, Amelunxen teamed up with Tennessee Trent and climb a route on the south east face of Icecap Peak, “We had seven belayed pitches and we moved together for another eight which were WI3 or easier,” said Amelunxen, “I’ve watched it for a years and have never seen it in shape or accessible before. Worked out well with low snow year.” From the river-crossing there is 1,700 metres of elevation to the top of the wall. “It was a fun climb, we bivied on the route, WI4, M4, 1,300 m.

Crossing the Squamish River  Photo Conny Amelunxen
Crossing the Squamish River Photo Conny Amelunxen
Trent avoiding a WI4-pitch because it was pouring with water. This pitch was M4/M5 (M = moss) Photo Conny Amelunxen
The SE Face of Icecap Peak Photo Conny Amelunxen