Nicholas Milburn has reported on 8a.nu that he spent around 10 weeks over three seasons piecing Dreamcatcher 5.14d in Squamish together. He is the seventh climber on record to have sent the test-piece which climbs a rising traverse up slopers and pin scars on the Cacodemon Boulder below The Chief.
“I came really close last year, but ran out of time,” said Milburn on 8a.nu. “I trained hard before returning this year to make sure I would be strong enough to send. The weather was also the best I have ever seen in Squamish. The day I sent was super windy which made a huge difference.
“Matty [Hong] taught me some advanced sport climbing strategies and I finally caught the dream. I’m psyched that such an iconic route is my first of the grade.”
Top American boulderer James “Jimmy” Webb sent Dreamcatcher in 2018 and Mike Foley climbed it in 2017. The first ascent was by Chris Sharma and it was repeated by Sean McColl in 2009. The third ascent was by Ben Harnden in 2012 and then Alex Megos climbed it in three tries.
Watch Chris Sharma send Dreamcatcher below.