Nicolas Favresse is one of the world’s top big-wall free climbers. He’s opened new routes on remote objectives around the world.
He recently spent some time in Yosemite, where he freed a big new route and sent a classic up El Capitan.
When @nicofavresse asked me to join him and put up a new route I didn't hesitate to say Yes! It was impressive to watch Nico in his element, move ground up comfortably on steep terrain. This is by far the most wild climbing I've ever done in Yosemite. Nico sent the new classic and I'll have to come back another day.
With Siebe Vanhee, Favresse climbed the 35-pitch El Corazon 5.13b in four days. Canadians Will Stanhope and Mike Doyle climbed El Corazon last year with Stanhope freeing the entire route.
But Favresse’s most noteworthy achievement during his visit was the first ascent of the 400-metre Eye of Sauron at Ribbon Fall with Alix Morris and Drew Smith.
On Instagram, Favresse wrote: “Its crux is one of the most unreal thing I have ever climbed with 3D climbing straight through a massive roof.”
Planetmountain.com reported the route is 5.13a/b and that it has no bolts. They rappelled off nuts.
In Yosemite, Favresse has climbed a number of big routes, including: Freerider 5.13a 1000m, L’Appat 5.13b 450m, The Secret Passage 5.13c 700m and the first ascent of Lost in Translation, a 400-metre 5.12b/c.