Nicolas Gaudreault has climbed a new 5.13d at the aesthetic Parapluie wall in Saguenay, Quebec. He called his new test-piece Exegese.
About one month ago, Gaudreault made the first free ascent of Facteur X, an old A4X aid climb that went half-way up the wall in 17 metres of climbing at 5.13c.
Gaudreault added another eight metres to make the full route 25 metres and it goes at 5.13d and overhangings for the upper section.
“The route was originally bolted by Jeff Beaulieu from Quebec, but had not been sent yet,” said Gaudreault. Last summer I made some changes at the end of the route and managed to finish it with lots of work.
“It is composed of two very hard cruxes, one in the beginning of the first half and one long crux in the middle of the second half of the route that finishes with a hard dead-point on a sloper.”
Gaudreault notes the route might be more difficult than 5.13d, but there is a good rest half-way that lets you shake out.