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Nina Caprez Repeats Multi-Pitch 5.13 in Rätikon

Nina Caprez has repeated a steep limestone multi-pitch route in the Rätikon, Switzerland

Her send of the 260-metre Headless Children was the third ascent of the route and only the third in over two decades.

She worked on the route in 2017 before returning this month with Jonathan Crison for the tick.

The first ascent was by Koni Mathis, Bruno Rudisser and Marco Muller and later free-climbed by Mark Amann at 5.13b. The second ascent was by Kilian Fischhuber in 2016.

Caprez is one of the world’s top multi-pitch senders with redpoints of the five-pitch Ultime Démence 5.13, the five-pitch La Ramirole 5.13, the 11 pitch Hotel Supramonte 5.13 and the six-pitch Silbergeier 5.14.

“I grew up near Rätikon, a legendary cliff with great routes,” said Caprez. “I’ve always loved the sensation of height, nature and freedom. I found what I was looking for in climbing thanks to Laurent Triay who told me about a route called Ultime Démence in Verdon.

“Now I am really looking for greater difficulty and big routes. Climbing is a way of channeling myself to find out what I am made of. Pushing myself to the limit, traveling all over the world, meeting people from all four corners of the world. I have learned that the most important thing is to be happy in this world. That’s what climbing is for me. It’s a sport based on the simplicity of living. You just need a rock, a harness, climbing shoes and a climbing buddy.”

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