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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery.

Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I finished the cleaning and likely first free ascent of the old aid route Weeping Wall at Shannon Falls on November 15,” Wild wrote on Squamish Climbing.

Looking down Jump to Lightspeed 5.10c.  Photo Taran Ortlieb
Looking down to Bianca Adolf on Jump to Lightspeed 5.10c. Photo Taran Ortlieb

“This route is very special and I feel very privileged to have been the one to unearth it and see it develop from beneath the greenery. This route could be considered in the top ten 5.10 crack pitches for Squamish. A lofty claim, I know”

The 45-metre 5.10c requires a single rack to number three and doubled of 0.3 and 0.2.”I’ve installed two rap stations for it. The top one is three metres below the anchor at the end of the Skywalker traverse pitch. The other one is on a large sloping ledge half way to the ground, plumb below the top anchor,” Wild wrote.

Just before reaching the base of the Gobsmacking Wall, a small trail branches up to the left. The route climbs a right facing corner for eight metres before tackling twin cracks and stemming through a steep wall. the upper half of the route is a spectacular hands to fingers to tips crack which ends with several thin face moves to the anchor. Two raps with a single rope will get you to the ground. The climbers who may appear to be on the route above you, are probably on the belay at the end of the Skywalker traverse.

Jump to Lightspeed climbs through the label "Skywalker" and ends below the traverse pitch.  Photo Quickdraw Publishing
Jump to Lightspeed climbs through the label “Skywalker” and ends below the traverse pitch. Photo Quickdraw Publishing

 

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