One of Ontario’s Hardest Boulders Gets Second Ascent

On March 14, Leo Wolfe made the second ascent of Vilified V13 (8B) at the Niagara Glen in Ontario. Vilified is perhaps Ontario’s most striking hard line. The problem was first envisioned by Keith McKay, who prepped the climb and built the landing. He then shared it with a young Ethan Salvo who made the first ascent in May 2021. “I think it’s pretty close to being a perfect problem,” said Wolfe. “It definitely has the best holds and flow of anything I’ve climbed on, at least in the Glen.”

Vilified is Wolfe’s most difficult send to date. The 18-year-old Torontonian has many V12s to his name, including Rite of Passage, The Punt, and Karasu at the Glen and Le Machiniste in Val-David. Over the course of a couple weeks in Squamish this summer, he sent The Method V12, Room Service V12, and Shelter V12/13.

I spoke with Wolfe to learn more about his ascent of Vilified. You can read our interview below.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Leo Wolfe (@leo_wolfe)

Interview with Leo Wolfe

How and when did Vilified first come onto your radar? When did you first try it?

I first heard about it when Ethan [Salvo] began trying it – that was shortly before COVID. I first climbed on it in 2022 when I did Personal Vendetta, a classic V8 that shares the opening moves but exits around the arete instead of continuing up the face. My first time trying “Vilified” was in spring of last year.

What was your projecting process like on the boulder?

I first started trying it last year while supporting my friends Ben Agro and Colin Blythe on it who were getting really close. During that season, I didn’t feel like I was climbing strong, so I guess I had a more playful approach to it since I felt like I was trying something that was too hard for me at the time. I think I spent around 7 or 8 sessions there with those guys and I was able to stick the crux move a few times, but I didn’t feel solid enough on it to even consider giving it burns.

I started feeling strong again in the summer and fall but didn’t get on it much since I was more psyched on trying to finish some other projects. It definitely stayed it the back of my mind though and it was the first thing I got back on this spring. My first session back I got really close, fumbling one of the last moves. Then my second session I did it first try of the day.

I am really grateful for my friends and community for their support, not just on this climb but in general. The bouldering at the Glen is really good in my opinion, but what makes it special is how psyched the community around it is.

What makes Vilified so difficult?

The problem is definitely unique for the Glen in that it’s more technically difficult than physically. It’s pretty crimpy and has a lot of moves and a really tricky heel hook. It’s almost more like a style you would find it Squamish than the Glen. The heel lets you match a perfect sloping edge then do the crux move to another edge. The next move isn’t very hard but it’s easy to drop it since the heel can pick pretty easily. The intro adds a little bit of fatigue in the biceps and some grease. The top is kind of scary and possible to drop if you mess up (like me), but isn’t too hard.

Any goals or certain climbs you want to get on this season/year?

I have a couple more established boulders I would like to do at the Glen as well as some projects. Phoenix from the Ashes and Rite of Passage Low come to mind, although the second one seems beyond me at the moment. I have a few small trips planned for the spring with my friends. Other than that I just want to keep training my power and hopefully go back to Squamish this summer.

Ethan Salvo’s FA of Vilified V13