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Oriane Bertone Makes First Ascent of V15 at 15

She's the fourth woman to climb the grade with this impressive send

Oriane Bertone has made the first ascent of Satan I Helvete Low V15 in Fontainbleau at only 15 years old. She’s the fourth woman to climb the grade following Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann and Mishka Ishi.

Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14 with she was 12. In 2019, she started competing in international youth sport climbing events where she won multiple gold medals in both lead and bouldering. Prior to Satan I Helvete, Bertone had climbed at least one V14 with Golden Shadow in Rocklands.

Bertone talked about covid isolation and her new send on Instagram below. She said: “During this quarantine, my motivation suddenly went down. It was surely the hardest month of training I’ve never experienced. But thanks to that, I’ve learned that progress is the only real objective I must have… Everything obviously wouldn’t have been possible without the support of my family, my friends and my sponsors, thank you so much for your incredible work and your big involvement, I’ll never be able to thank you enough.”

Bertone on Satan I Helvete Low V15

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{"Satan I Helvete low start" — 8c} This trip in lockdown in Fontainebleau taught me much more than I expected. During this quarantine, my motivation suddenly went down. It was surely the hardest month of training I’ve never experienced. But thanks to that, I’ve learned that progress is the only real objective I must have. Become and relive each day, renew and reinvent yourself with new shades of color on our canvas. Simply progress, move forward and keep your head up high. Dare to accept yourself as you are. Dare to accept being kneaded, molded and shaped with defaults and qualities, and that perfection and achievement of results doesn’t simply mean accomplishment. Accomplishment is the accumulation, the acceptance that our falls, our adjustments, our fears, our doubts, our abandonments and our surpassings are neither useless nor lost. That the way taken may be the right one, and that the longest path sometimes hides more treasures than the shortest path. It is thanks to all these stages, these stops, these injuries, these fears, tears and these questions that each in his own way progresses and advances. Here is "Satan I Helvete" my very first 8c and long-standing project. During this journey, I did some wonderful boulders that I’ll surely post later 😉 Everything obviously wouldn’t have been possible without the support of my family, my friends and my sponsors, thank you so much for your incredible work and your big involvement, I’ll never be able to thank you enough ! @scarpafrance @e9clothing_official @team_edelrid @verticalartclimbing @basaltevolution @zer0_3000

A post shared by OяıΔηε Βεяτoηε (@oriane_bertone) on

Problem History

Dave Graham made the first ascent of Satan I Helvete in 2003 and graded it V14. It was repeated by Dai Koyamada, Paul Robinson, Jan Hojer and other top climbers. After a few years the grade settled at V13. In 2013, a key hold broke but a stand start was added by Alban Levier at V15, but Charles Albert and Nicolas Pelorson suggested V14. Many top climbers have attempted the new sit start that Bertone just opened at V15.

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Levier’s Send

Satan I Helvete – Reopening 8c

Ce matin j'ai enfin enchaîné un de mes plus gros projets de l'hiver. Cela faisait deux ans que Satan I Helvete n'avait pas été répété en raison d'une prise cassée. Cette belle ligne méritait un petit rappel à l'odre. Ouvert à 8b, le bloc vaut aujourd'hui son 8c (V15) selon moi. Pour finir cette belle journée je réalise Narcotic 8b. Trop content !This morning I achieve one of my biggest winter project. Satan I Helvete wasn't repeated since two years due to a breaking hold. This king line had to be ascent. Opened at V13, Today I think about a V15. To ending this nice day I did the ascents of Narcotic V13.S'Cape Fontainebleau

Posted by Alban Levier on Wednesday, February 24, 2016