PhD Student Repeats 5.15b in Italy
The self proclaimed weekend warrior has climbed several 5.15s in the past
Environmental sciences PhD student Stefano Carnati has repeated Erebor 5.15b in Itay. The first ascent was by Stefano Ghisolfi at 5.15b/c and repeated by Laura Rogora.
Ghisolfi wrote of Erebor: “In my opinion I never climbed in Italy something as hard as this route, but I still think it doesn’t reach the full 9b+ [5.15c] comparing it to Change or Perfecto Mundo. Therefore my grade suggestion is 9b/+ [5.15b/c] that makes it the hardest route in Italy and my proudest first ascent, and I’m looking forward to someone coming and repeating it soon.”
The third ascent was by Adam Ondra, who said that he believes it’s a solid 5.15b: “I am aware that I might be criticized for downgrading a route that was recently climbed by a woman. The fact that Laura did Erebor is one of the most impressive feats in climbing ever, but my suggestion is just my honest opinion and not a way to put down her achievement. Not talking about the fact she can definitely climb harder than that.”
Carnati put in around 20 sessions before getting a send. He’s climbed a number of classic hard routes over the years, including Action Directe 5.14d and Biographie 5.15a. He’s also sent Thor’s Hammer at Flatanger, which Adam Ondra graded 5.15a and Carnati graded 5.14d.