After a prolonged wet spring the past winter’s route development projects have begun to fall at Chinese Mountains on Quadra Island on B.C.’s West Coast. Cherry picking from the few dry days over the last month 10 new routes between 5.7 and 5.10d have received first ascents and about a dozen more are in the wings.

Local route developer Philip Stone had a busy winter opening up three entirely new crags: The Great Wall, Xiao Crag and Tao Crag and bringing energy to round-out the offerings on a pair of previously developed faces, Jumping Frog Wall and the East Wall, with a season-opening slate of 25 new routes. That brings the total number of established lines on the island up to 200.

Through late April and May Stone teamed up with a variety of partners to climb: Dragon Eyes 5.9 with Robin Sutmöller, Overtime 5.10a and Paper Tiger 5.10b/c with Hunter Lee, Orient Express 10b with Lee and Tak Ogasawara. With Allan Ramsay the superb two pitch Silk Road came in at 5.10c, Ramsay and Stone climbed the second pitch of Dynasty at 5.10a but the lower 5.11- pitch remains a project, they finished that session with Amphibian 5.9+ 2 pitches.

On the May long weekend with Chris Jensen, Hunter Lee and Christine Reddick Nymph 5.7, Newt 5.7, Panorama Prow 10a, Chinatown 10d and The Great Leap Forward 10d were all added in a one day first ascent blitz.

Allan Ramsay on the second pitch of Amphibian high above the green forests of Quadra Island. Photo Philip Stone

The volcanic andesite found on Quadra Island gives steep, feel-good climbing on challenging but generally positive incuts. Visiting climbers especially note the stick-to friction from the coarse, pea-sized crystals that characterize the rock. The island has around twenty individual, developed-crags dotted across a south-facing hillside overlooking the Salish Sea. The spectacular views and rural charm of Quadra has quickly made the island a popular destination for west coast and visiting climbers.

Much of this year’s new route development has been made possible by generous donations from the Climbers Access Society of BC, the Alpine Climb of Canada Vancouver Island Section and personal donations from Greg Sorensen and Robin Sutmöller.

For more information:

Hunter Lee belays Tak Ogasawara on Orient Express. Photo Philip Stone

Orient Express 5.10b ** 50m
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara in May 2017
Silk Road 5.10c *** 50m
FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone in May 2017
Nymph 5.7 * 15m
FA: Christine Reddick, Philip Stone in May 2017
Amphibian 5.9+ ** 40m
FA: Allan Ramsay, Philip Stone in May 2017
Newt 5.7 * 28m
FA: Chris Jensen, Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Christine Reddick in May 2017
Panorama Prow 5.10a ** 23m
FA: Chris Jensen, Philip Stone, Hunter Lee in May 2017
Chinatown 5.10d *** 25m
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Chris Jensen in May 2017
Overtime 5.10a ** 28m
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone in May 2017
Dragon Eyes 5.9 * 26m
FA: Robin Sutmöller, Philip Stone in May 2017
Paper Tiger 5.10b/c *** 27m
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone in May 2017
The Great Leap Forward 5.10d *** 28m
FA: Chris Jensen, Philip Stone, Hunter Lee in May 2017

Chris Jensen on The Great leap Forward on the East Wall. Photo Philip Stone

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