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Quebec Climber Sends Wild New 5.14b in Vermont

Félicien Roy has opened a long, steep line linking several other hard routes to a wild top-out

Lone Rock Point in northern Vermont has some stout sport routes up to 5.14-. This week, Quebec climber Félicien Roy linked several of the test-piece lines into one monster 5.14b.

Roy said the climb is an “amazing climbing marathon that traverses the entire overhanging section of the crag.” It starts on Ghostface Drilla 5.13c/d and moves right using burly heel hooks to a rest at seven metres.

From there, you climb to a horizontal tufa that provides a cool kneebar. After that you reach a rest at the anchor for King Tubby 5.14a. Prepare for the final push to the top via Terror Wolf: the Howling Undead Warrior 5.13c.

Roy visited Greece earlier this year where he climbed routes up to 5.14. Before leaving, he spent time at Lone Rock Point where his send list included Livin astro 5.14c, Riviera 5.13d, Texas 5.13d, Welcome to Jamrock 5.14b and the first ascent of  Tubby Wolf 5.14b. Watch Roy on A tribord, toute! below.