Quebec climber Em Pellerin, who’s featured in the current issue of Gripped magazine, has reported that she freed an aid route in China with her partner Julien Bourassa-Moreau.
Colours of the Wind is a four-pitch trad climb at Liming, one of the best sandstone climbing areas in the world. It was graded 5.12 A1 until Pellerin and Bourassa-Moreau worked the moves and freed the entire line.
“You start with a few long moves between side pulls, jams and reach a flake, run it out until the crack decides to show up again,” said Pellerin. “A few more moves and the crack narrows down to 0.1 (the A1 section). Steal calves, flat fingertips and pinky can be of a good use for the next four or so metres. Then it goes from hands to knee size, pass a rattly finger section to face holds.”
A few days before the send, Bourassa-Moreau sent Searching for No More 5.14a. In Quebec, he’s opened a number of hard climbs, including Cassiopee 5.14 and Metelkova 5.14b, both at Baldi.
Last year, Pellerin made the second onsight ascent of The Shadow 5.13 trad in Squamish and has climbed a number of hard sport routes up to 5.14.
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Searching for no more 5.14a ✔️, Shigu, 🇨🇳 This route was bolted and climbed by the french🇫🇷 climber Enzo Oddo. What was he searching for? A nice wall to develop? Another sequence to climb the bouldery crux? Something else to eat than rice🍚? It must be it. I understand why he stopped searching. Why would you want to eat something else anyway? #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #allezup #chinaclimb #sportclimbing