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Rachel Pearce Sends Her First 5.13+R

Nightmayer is one of the most classic hard trad routes in the area

Rachel Pearce has climbed her first E8 6c, which translates to 5.13+R on the Yosemite Decimal Scale, with a recent repeat of Nightmayer at the famous Cenotaph Corner at Llanberis Pass.

“Journey of the Cromlech complete,” said Pearce about Nightmayer. “What an experience, from the first time I tried it i couldn’t stop smiling. It’s everything I love about the Cromlech. The most psyched for a route I have ever been on trad. I sort of didn’t want to lead it because I didn’t want it to end, but then the weather is so good now that I feel I’m missing out on the mountain crags. Six sessions, touch and go but went down on the first lead.” Before this ascent, Pearce had repeated several routes up to 5.13- (E7), such as Dream Topping E7 7a and Ring My Bell E7 6b.

The description for Nightmayer goes as, “Sustained technical climbing, long runouts, iffy gear and a desperate high crux should test all but the toughest mettle.” The lower section of the route is serious and bold. Pearce placed sky hooks and a white tri-cam in the run-out upper headwall.

It was first climbed back in 1992 by Steve Mayer and famously filmed in 2008 when Nico Favresse took a 20-metre whipper on it – watch below. It was then repeated by Tim Emmett and Alex Mason. In 2018, Emma Twyford became the first woman to send it, and in 2019 it was onsighted by Steve McClure. Watch below.

Favresse Whipper

McClure’s Onsight