Raven Crag is Top Banff Wall With New 5.10s You Should Visit

Raven Crag sits high above the town of Banff on the north side of Sulphur Mountain. It overlooks the Bow Valley and Vermillion Lakes and is almost always in the shade, which makes it perfect for hot summer days.

Peter Arbic, arguably one of Canada’s most well-rounded climbers in the 1990s, established a number of hard routes at Raven Crag.

The wall is also well known for its seven-pitch 5.9 sport route Plutonian Shores established by local mountain guide Mark Klassen and partners.

Over the last month, James Blackhall has been busy retro-bolting old routes to make them safe again. He has also added new moderate routes in hopes more people will visit the area for some easier climbs.

He fixed the six-bolt House of Usher 5.12a by Arbic and the first pitch of the two-pitch The Masque 5.12a. He teamed up with Greg Tos and fixed the two-pitch Telltale Heart 5.13a, which climbs a steep 5.11d pitch before the burly roof on the second pitch.

Blackhall has added two new 5.10s to Raven Crag this spring. One is called Apollo 5.10c and Blackhall said it looks like there is good enough rock above to continue with more pitches. The other is called Where the Wild Things Are and climbs a nice sheet of blue rock.