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Remote Northwest Adventure Yields New Long Routes

Canadian Max Fisher and American Eric Bonnett have returned from another successful trip to Alaska and Northwestern B.C., where they’ve climbed two new long alpine granite routes.

By Max Fisher

During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Erik Bonnett and I climbed two new routes in the southeastern Alaska and Northern B.C. Coast Mountains. We travelled over glaciers, bashed our way through slide alder and devils club and paddled some difficult class three and four whitewater for three-and-a-half days in pack-rafts.

Our first objective was Kooshdakhaa Spire 2,100 metres [Erik and Max climbed a new route on Kooshdakhaa in 2014, see below for link to story] and to climb the 600-metre north-facing rock spire. We landed on May 18 and set up camp and got geared up for an attempt on the 19th.

We set out early and made quick work of the previous pitches (up to 5.10) we had climbed on our attempt last year. We entered new terrain and continued climbing until 11:30 p.m. (sustained 5.10 and 5.10+) before stopping on a small diving board ledge to re-hydrate and shiver for four to five hours before continuing. We climbed six more pitches (sustained 5.10 and 5.11- with some aid) to the summit.

After honouring Cory Hall on the summit, by spreading some of his ashes and spent the next few hours making our way back to our camp. After 37 hours on the go, we arrived back in camp happy with our achievement: Otter Water Boogie Man V 5.11- A1 600 metres.

Eric standing on the summit of Kooshdakhaa Spire after the teams second new route up the remote granite peak in Alaska. Photo Max Fisher
Eric standing on the summit of Kooshdakhaa Spire after the teams second new route up the remote granite peak in Alaska. Photo Max Fisher

After a few days chilling in camp under clear skies, we loaded our packs and rafts and trudged into Northern B.C. in search of another climbing objective. We found it in the highest point of an unnamed ridge line that reaches 2,270 metres.

We climbed the run-out lower slabs (up to 5.10) for three long pitches to a large ledge and then climbed up the middle of the main buttress (from 5.6 to 5.11-), aiming for what looked like a lightning bolt shaped feature, to a beautiful final head-wall pitch (5.9+).

We descended to the southeast and did two rappels to the glacier on the east side of the ridge and walked back to camp. We arrived back in camp after 16 hours on the go. We were blessed once again with passage up a new route: Lichening Bolt Buttress IV 5.11- 400 metres.

Erik climbing some of the solid granite during his and Max Fisher's adventure to Alaska and B.C.  Photo Max Fisher
Erik climbing some of the solid granite during his and Max Fisher’s adventure to Alaska and B.C. Photo Max Fisher

After relaxing in camp, we decided to make our way to the river and start floating back to the front country. We navigated a short ice-fall and were off the glacier in one long day.

At the headwaters of the Nourse River, we dragged out boats over a frozen lake and made a short portage and then paddled across another lake to continuous class two and three whitewater.

When we came to a big horizon line, we started another portage. The next day we paddled whitewater that steepened and offered continuous class three/three-plus paddling with some class four and five rapids that we walked around, which included two beautiful canyons that would be excellent to paddle in a kayak.

The following day was filled with more fun whitewater and also the end of our exciting trip.

Max and Erc's two new routes.  Photo Max Fisheri
Max and Erc’s two new routes. Photo Max Fisher

-Max Fisher recieved the 2015 Shipton-Tilman Grant for his upcoming Karakorum expedition, for more see here and to read about Max and Erik’s 2014 trip to Alaska, see here.

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