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Riden’ With Biden is Squamish 5.9 Climbed in 1979

The first ascentionist has retro-named a Smoke Bluffs' trad climb after Joe Biden became president

It might be the longest a route has gone without a proper name, but a short climb at the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish now has an official title.

A lot of rock climbs are called “No Name” or “Unnamed,” but we’re not sure how many times one of them has been retro-named by the first ascent team 41 years after it was first climbed.

Anders Ourom, Squamish climbing legend, has given one of his 1979 climbs a new name. He said, “After due consideration, and now that it’s legal to climb it, I’ve decided to give ‘my’ route a name. It is named Ridin’ With Biden.”

On Nov. 7, it was announced that Joe Biden will be the next president of the U.S.A. and that Kamala Harris will become the first female, first Black and first South Asian vice president.

Ourom’s old climb is right of The Zip by the Blind Channel and was referred to as No Name Route in guidebooks. He said it’s “a modest route, with much to be modest about. A nice little crack, maybe 5.9, at most 15 metres. I did it in 1979, the same day we did Crystal Ball 5.10b [at the same crag]. Probably it could do with a bit of sprucing up, although industrial tactics seem inappropriate.”

The Zip

Ourom completed his first route on The Chief on Dec. 31, 1972, at the age of 16., and once did an Ironman in Hawaii.

He’s has been documenting West Coast climbing for 30 years. After the rockfall on The Chief a few years ago, he said, “There was a rockfall on (off?) The Chief in January (before the tremor in March). Climbers leaving the brew pub, senses perhaps moderately enhanced, saw it and report spectacular fireworks.“

Watch Ourom give a presentation at Feat in 2012 below.

Anders at Feat