Home > Mountain

Russians Climb New Thalay Sagar North Face Route

Sergey Nilov, Dmitry Grigoriev and Dmitry Golovchenko have climbed a new route up the north face of the 6,904-metre Thalay Sagar in India. The new route is called Moveable Feast WI5 M7 A3 F5c 1,400m ED2. The team descended the classic 1979 route. It is one of many routes up the north face of the big mountain and start up 600 metres of steep ice and snow.

The ramp led to steep rock for 200 metres and then to 70- to 80-degree mixed climbing for 400 metres. The team found ropes and gear high on the face under ice that was likely left by a 1994 Italian attempt. The route ends up an overhanging headwall. Canadians Paul McSorley, Joshua Lavigne and Jason Kruk visited the area a few years ago for an attempt on the north face. The attempt is captured in the film below.