Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau recently made the first ascent of Ruth Gorge Grinder AI6+ M7, 1,500 metres, on Mount Dickey in Alaska. “This winter when Marvell, an equal parts talented, scrappy, modest, and perhaps above all else motivated climber expressed interest in doing an early Alaska trip, East Face of Dickey, almost reflexively came out of my mouth,” said Rousseau.
Their plan was to repeat Blood from Stone, first climbed in 2002, but it lacked ice. The team bivied on the face and decided to continue up but on a different line. On day two, the team made a tricky pendulum into a chimney system. After some technical pitches, they found steep neve and alpine ice. “Protection on the next couple pitches was pretty sparse consisting of tying off stubbiest in the ice blobs on the side of the chimney and occasionally being able to sink a screw to the head,” said Marvell. ” We climbed that block of pitches and pulled into a snowfield right as it was starting to get dark out, we chopped a hasty ledge ate dinner and set in for an uncomfortable night.”
They spent the night soaked and cold before heading out early up more nice pitches before deep snow below the summit. “Finally out of the chimney we were out of the frying pan and into the fire, the final jog to the summit consisted of waste deep facets and less then inspiring gear,” said Marvell. “Alan dispatched it in two long simul blocks until we finally pulled into the summit ridge and had a nice sunny walk to the summit.” Read the full story below.