Same Day Send: Trotter and Doyle on Smith Rock 5.13dR
Canadians Sonnie Trotter and Mike Doyle are currently in Smith Rock climbing difficult and run-out routes.
On May 6, they both ticked Full Spank the Monkey 5.13dR, which Doyle asked if it was the first known TCIADA?
TCIADA breaks down to first known two Canadians in a day ascent. And yes, it probably was.
The extension of Spank the Monkey 5.12a was first climbed in 2003 by Tommy caldwell and follows an unsettlingly sharp, exposed and runout arete up the Northeast Face of the Monkey Face formation.
The route is similar to the bottom in both movement and bolting. Instead of climbing through easy terrain runout, you climb an overhanging, relentless and very sharp arete runout.
There are three bolts protecting the entire upper section. Like the bottom, you’ll have a bolt at the hardest parts, but you’ll be expected to climb 5.12 far above your last bolt.
Trotter wrote on Instagram after, “Dream climb. It was a moody night on the backside – and great temps. Big thanks to Mike Doyle for the beta, top rope and motivation.
“Probably the first time this spectacular Tommy Caldwell route has been climbed by two Canadians in the same day, Full Spank the Monkey 5.13d. I think we’re both pretty stoked we didn’t take the BIG whip and now enjoying margaritas after our back to back sends of this very scary arête. What an amazing day.”
The great photographer Simon Carter was on hand to capture the below image of Doyle.
What a route! Spank The Monkey, 5.13d-R. I wasn't sure what kind of shape I would be in when I came to Smith so I thought it would be a good challenge to try something that is more of a mental challenge than a physical one. Well… This arete was _engaging_!! Everything I wanted. Thanks Sonnie (@sonnietrotter) for the belays and support!! I also think it was more terrifying to belay your send than when I was climbing. It was smooth but damn those runouts look big. First known TCIADA? Here's a photo from the ultra-talented Simon Carter (@simoncarter_onsight). Thank You! #climbing #rockclimbing #smithrock #runout #bravestthingiveeverseen @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing @rhinoskinsolutions