Sarah Hueniken Links Three Epic Ghost Routes in a Day

She climbed Cryophobia M8+, Nophobia M10+ and Hydrophobia (except the final pitch) WI5/6 in a day

February 15th, 2020 by | Posted in News, Profiles |

Canadian crusher Sarah Hueniken recently linked three epic routes in the Ghost River Wilderness Area in a day. There are three routes side by side in the North Ghost known as the Phobias.

First, she led every pitch on Cryophobia M8+ WI5/6 with John Price belaying. She then moved onto Nophobia, a five pitch M10+ with Scott McKay and John Price. Lastly, she led every pitch of the classic Hydrophobia WI5/6, only to be turned around one pitch from the top.

Will Gadd said, “Only one pitch below the top one of the ice dams that gave Hydrophobia it’s name released a violent river of water, and she did the smart thing and not the goal-blinded move and retreated rather than subject her and McKay to a potentially life threatening situation. This is one of the finest, hardest, most intense climbing days I’ve ever heard of in the Canadian Rockies or anywhere.” Learn more about Hueniken here.

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A few weeks ago I attempted a long time dream goal of mine, to link up Nophobia 5 pitches M10+ WI 3, Cryophobia 6 pitches M8 WI5+ and Hydrophobia 4 pitches WI 5+ in a day. It felt unrealistic with the 2 hour drive, 2 hour ski approach and short daylight hours in January but one thing I’ve learned this past year is that nothing is impossible with the help of good friends. I managed to lead all of cryo and nophobia clean and was a pitch from the top of Hydro when a big water dam broke. Despite it being on the other side of the climb, I didn’t feel that the goal was worth the risk, so the link up still awaits a full ascent for anyone who is keen! I’d be happy to support:) Huge thanks to @tiff_jm88 @realwillgadd @johnpricephotography @scotty.mckay @northondivision and @thunderflurry for all your encouragement and help on this project and in the past year. This certainly was a team link up as is life… because you can’t ride the ups and downs alone. Asking for help can be the hardest thing to do, but can also be the most important. I’m so fortunate to have friends and family on this journey❤️. @arcteryx @scarpana @onwardup_campus @sterlingrope

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