Colorado-based Sasha DiGiulian has repeated Joe Exotic 5.14- at the Flatirons in Boulder. The route was first climbed in 2021 by Matt Samet. It’s found at Hillbilly Rock and parallels a line called Tiger King, a 14-bolt 5.13-.
“The techy, tiny crystal moves felt enticing and a nice compliment to some of my other local projects,” DiGiulian, who recently founded an energy bar company called Send Bars, said. “I quickly realized that this climb was definitely not great in 100 degree heat. So, I had the solution to start trying it at night.”
In 2018, she visited Canada and became the second climber to repeat Sonnie Trotter’s Rockies’ Trilogy, which includes The Shining Uncut 5.14 on Mount Louis, War Hammer 5.14 on Castle Mountain and Blue Jeans Direct 5.14 on Yamnuska. DiGiulian, who sent Pure Imagination 5.14+ in 2011, became the first woman to send Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13, in May 2021.
Arriving at 7:30 p.m. to Joe Exotic, DiGiulian waited for temps to cool and stayed busy by brushing holds and working on crux sequences. She said that she put her headlamp on and started climbing just before 8:30. See her post below for the rest of the story.